BUCKHORN CLIFFS

Garden and Livestock · Guide

Colorado high-elevation vegetable gardening

How to plan a vegetable garden for Colorado's short, high-altitude season: zones, weather, crop choices, site and soil prep, beds and frost dates.

Quick facts

Last frost
first half of May on the plains and urban Front Range; late May into June in the foothills and mountains
First frost
early to mid October on the plains and Front Range; early to mid September in the foothills and mountains
Elevation effect
around 3.5 degrees cooler per 1000 feet gained
Sun
at least 6 to 8 hours per day
Soil pH
most vegetables do fine from about 6.0 to 7.5
Compost
1 inch for every four inches of soil

The photos here are from the garden at my previous property on the northern Front Range.

Growing your own vegetables is an incredibly rewarding experience that also pays you back with fresh food! But to get the best results and to reduce frustration, you should know how to garden for your location. Whether you’re a beginner gardener or just new to gardening in Colorado, this guide will help you get the most from your efforts.

Gardening is Fun
Early Garden Growth
Colorado Gardening Rewards

How to Get Started with Your Colorado Garden


Understand Your Colorado Growing Season

The local climate and how it affects the growing season is one of the main things to keep in mind when planning a Colorado garden. The state includes a variety of microclimates and 9 different “growing zones,” which means certain plants may grow well in some parts of the state and not in others.

While there are differences, most of Colorado has a shorter growing season as compared to warmer, lower altitude areas. The average elevation across the state is 6,800 feet above sea level, and for every 1000 feet gained, the temperature drops around 3.5 degrees. Gardeners at lower elevations get the benefit of a warmer, longer growing season and will be able to grow more types of vegetables. There are exceptions though, such as in valleys, which are often chillier than hillside locations due to the sinking of cool night air.

With all that in mind, it’s important to know where your garden falls on the Plant Hardiness Zone Map, and in general, you will have the most success if you grow plants that are labeled as growing well in your particular zone.

Garden Beets
Peppers Doing Well in Colorado Garden
Colorado Garden Plant After May 15th

Be Aware of the Weather

Once you have an idea of your climate and growing zone, you should also recognize that Colorado weather presents a unique set of challenges that you’ll have to contend with if you want your garden to thrive. Gardening in a high altitude, mountainous region means you’ll be dealing with relatively low humidity, high intensity sunlight, and sometimes rapid and extreme weather changes. For example, even Denver, which is known for hot summer days, can still experience cool spells within the growing season that may disrupt plant development. In addition, conditions can range from being very dry to extremely wet, and hail storms near the end of summer can destroy plants just as they’re nearing the harvest date.

When growing in this region, you should stay vigilant about checking the weather and protect plants accordingly. It can be very worthwhile to invest in things like row covers, hoop tunnels, shade cloth, and wind breaks, as they can help protect your plants against extreme or rapidly changing weather.

Late April Snowfall

Late April Snowfall

Late snow in Colorado is all too common. While it's annoying it can be expected. It's hard to not get antsy when you have 80 degree days in March and April. Don't push the start date, it's not worth it and you'll have plenty of time in the fall to harvest.

Late May Snowfall

Most of the pictures here are from my old home, I now live a little further west (in the mountains at a slightly higher elevation). Here's a look at a late May snow.

May 20th Buckhorn Cliffs
May 21st Buckhorn Cliffs - Late Snow in Colorado
May 20th Buckhorn Cliffs Swing
May 21st Buckhorn Cliffs May Snow in Colorado

Even if the weather is nice in May... it's a gamble planting at high elevation.

Decide What Plants to Grow

Once you’ve pinpointed your growing season and understand how the local weather may influence things, you’ll have a more realistic idea of what plants you can grow successfully in your area. With that in mind, make a list of all the vegetables you’d like to grow for the particular season, taking into account the space you’ll have in the garden. If you’re starting in the early spring, you can grow some cool-weather plants in the beginning of the season and put out some warm-weather veggies shortly after.

Heirloom Seeds
Strawberries do well in Colorado
Pre Grown Plant Makes Things Easy

About 80% of the plants you see in this garden were grown using seeds from SeedsTrust. They specialize in seeds that are cold-tolerant, short-season varieties, perfect for my high-altitude Colorado garden. And not only that, but they offer heirloom seeds and information on seed saving so you can preserve your favorite garden varieties year after year. I had amazing success with my SeedsTrust Rainbow Blend Carrots (as you can see from the photo below).

Below are some of the most popular cool and warm-season crops that can grow well in Colorado.

Cool-Season Crops in Colorado

  • Turnips
  • Beets
  • Kale
  • Spinach
  • Lettuce
  • Peas
  • Carrots
  • Radishes
  • Chard
  • Cabbage
  • Parsnips
  • Cauliflower
  • Broccoli
  • Leeks
  • Brussels sprouts
  • Potatoes
  • Onions
  • Parsley

Warm Season Crops in Colorado

  • Tomatoes
  • Peppers
  • Eggplant
  • Beans
  • Cucumbers
  • Corn
  • Squash
  • Melons
  • Eggplant

Prepare a Garden Site

You should begin preparing your garden well before it’s actually time to start growing vegetables. If starting a new Colorado garden, preparation involves choosing a suitable location, designing the layout, and preparing the soil. If you’re a beginner gardener, it’s important to not get over your head in the size or scope of your garden, as this will only lead to frustration. Start with a few plants that you can easily handle, so you can get an idea of what you’re capable of managing and how things grow in your area.

In my location in the foothills (6,000ft) I have a lot of deer. A regular garden wouldn't cut it, I needed "walls". Here's a look at my building process for a deer-proof garden.

Picking the Garden Spot
Getting Your Garden Started
Digging the Holes
Preparing the Garden Walls
Further Colorado Garden Preperation
Raised Garden Bed Materials
Raised Bed Garden
Dig Deep to Keep Bunnies Out
Wrapping Welded Wire to Keep Deer Out
Garden in Colorado

Keeping The Deer Out

They're cute but they'll eat all your hard work.

Keep the Deer Out Gardening

Tips on Picking a Good Garden Spot

  • Select a site that gets at least 6 to 8 hour of sun per day (many warm-season vegetables thrive with even more hours of sunlight).
  • Choose a place near your home for convenient tending and watering.
  • If growing warm-season crops, select the warmest spot on the property (usually on the south side or near your house, which radiates heat).
Mulch Helps to Retain Water
Garden Sunflowers
High Elevation Gardening

Garden Soil Preperation

Once you have your site chosen, you’ll need to get the soil ready for planting by doing the following:

  • Dig up any grass or vegetation within the site.
  • Till the soil to loosen it (this can be done by hand or with a machine).
  • While tilling, add in organic matter or compost which will enrich the soil and provide nutrients for the vegetables. A general rule for adding compost or organic material is to incorporate 1 inch of it for every four inches of soil.

Much of Colorado has alkaline, clay soils, so it’s likely that you’ll need to amend your soil with a good deal of organic matter to loosen it. Most vegetables do fine anywhere from about 6.0 to 7.5. In Colorado soils with free lime, lowering the pH is rarely practical, so add organic matter to loosen the clay and feed the soil, not to change the pH.

Decide Between Raised Beds or an In-Ground Garden

Choosing between raised beds versus growing in-ground is largely a matter of personal preference. However, there is one major advantage to choosing raised beds when you’re dealing with Colorado weather: the soil in raised beds gets warmer sooner. This means you can start planting earlier and give your vegetables more time to reach full development. This one advantage can make all the difference if you’re in a place with a shorter than average growing season.

Another benefit of using a raised bed in Colorado is that you don’t have to contend with potentially poor, clay-filled soil. You simply fill the beds with the optimum amount of dirt and organic material from the start and enjoy loose, aerated soil without worrying about extensive tilling or amendments.

Early Garden Growth
Gardening in Colorado

The major downside of using raised beds is that they can be expensive to both build and fill with soil. In comparison, you could theoretically clear a place in your yard and add homemade compost to it with virtually no cost.

A good compromise is to use raised beds for your warm-weather veggies and plant your cool-season crops directly in the ground, since they’re more tolerant to cold soil.

When Do I Plant My Colorado Garden?

Most vegetables grow best on frost-free soil, so one of the first things every gardener should know is the last and first frost dates for their location. In other words, on what date in the spring does frost stop showing up on the ground and on what date in the fall does it reappear. Of course, these dates are always an approximation and are different throughout the state, but frost dates swing widely across Colorado. On the plains and the urban Front Range the last frost usually falls in the first half of May and the first fall freeze in early to mid October. In the foothills and mountains the last frost runs late May into June and the first freeze comes in early to mid September, sooner in high valleys.

For spring gardens, you can plant some types of cold hardy veggies a few weeks before the last frost date, but warm-season crops should only go outside after all danger of frost has passed. There are many online sources for finding your last and first frost date, so make sure to take note of those times when planning your garden, and read seed packets to find out when it’s safe to put a particular plant outside.

Late April Snow

Frost-Hardy Vegetables (Good & Bad)

Here’s a quick guide to some of the most and least frost-hardy vegetables. Use it as a basic guideline when deciding when to plant what veggies:


Very Frost Hardy (good for early spring, spring, and fall gardens)

  • Kale
  • Lettuce
  • Collards
  • Spinach
  • Mustard
  • Turnips
  • Radish
  • Cabbage
  • English Peas
  • Broccoli
  • Brussels sprouts
  • Parsley

Semi-frost hardy (can handle light frosts, good for spring and fall gardens)

  • Beets
  • Swiss chard
  • Celery
  • Carrot
  • Cauliflower
  • Potatoes
  • Lettuce

Not Frost-Hardy (require temps of 65 to 90 degrees to grow, good for high spring and summer gardens)

  • Tomatoes
  • Peppers
  • Eggplant
  • Beans
  • Cucumbers
  • Summer Squash
  • Sweet potatoes
  • Melons
  • Pumpkins
  • Southern Peas
  • Eggplant

Plant Inside & Plant Early

Preparing Plants for Colorado Garden
Prepare Your Garden Inside

Where to Start Seeds (indoors or outdoors)

You can start some veggie seeds indoors, if you want to give your plants a bit of a head start, while others do better if sown directly in the ground or bed. The easiest way to know if you can start a seed indoors is to read the instructions that come on the seed packet. Most packets will list all the most important info you need to know for growing the plant, such where to start the seed, when to plant, how much light it needs, etc.

In Colorado, it can be a smart idea to start warm season crops indoors (about 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost) to ensure they get a long enough growing time. It’s less necessary to start seeds indoors for cold weather veggies, like greens, carrots, beets, and lettuce, and many of these plants tend to do better anyway when they aren’t transplanted. Kale, collards, mustards, and other greens are among the most tolerant to cold weather (they even taste sweeter in the cold), so you can feel comfortable sowing those directly outdoors early in the growing season.

How to Extend Your Colorado Growing Season

Fun Snack Garden Peas
Colorado Garden Growth
Tomatos and Zucchini

Cooler weather and late frosts in parts of Colorado can cut weeks or months off the growing season. In addition to starting some seeds indoors, you can counteract this and extend your growing season by using one or more of these tips:

  • Cover the soil with black plastic and/or mulch to help keep it warm.
  • Use raised beds.
  • Plant frost-tolerant veggies early.
  • Plant cool-weather crops as soon as soil temperatures allow.
  • If there’s a chance of late frost, protect plants by covering them. Frost blankets or row covers are very convenient for this, but if you’d like to save the expense, you can also use things like milk jugs, old cartons, bags, etc.
  • Use a hoop tunnel, cold frame, or green house for a convenient, long term solution. These items have higher upfront costs, but can add months to both your spring and fall growing seasons.

Final Tips for Growing Vegetables in Colorado

Getting Children to Help in the Garden
Garden Rewards
Gardening Rewards

Use mulch around the plants.

Because the atmosphere is thin at high altitudes, water evaporates faster. A layer of mulch around the plants can help keep moisture in and prevent the soil from drying out as fast.

Look for quick growing varieties of plants.

The “days to harvest” info on many seed packets is tested in warmer, lower altitude conditions and may not be entirely accurate for your location. So, select seeds types with the fewest days to harvest.

Look for varieties described as “cold-tolerant".

Check seed packets for characteristics like “cold tolerant,” “reliable in cool weather,” “productive,” or “vigorous.” These should have the greatest chance of surviving any unseasonable cold-spells and should reach maturity within the growing season.

In general, mountain gardens will have the best luck with cool season crops and may even have a harvest that surpasses gardens at lower elevations. Successful gardening is largely about embracing what is known to grow well in your area and not trying to force plants that are more suited to different environments.

Questions this answers

Tap a question for the short answer.

When do I plant a vegetable garden in colorado?

Plan around your frost dates, which swing widely across Colorado. On the plains and the urban Front Range the last frost usually falls in the first half of May. In the foothills and mountains it runs late May into June. Cold hardy vegetables can go out a few weeks before the last frost, but warm-season crops should wait until all frost danger has passed.

What vegetables grow well in colorado?

Cool-season crops that do well include turnips, beets, kale, spinach, lettuce, peas, carrots, radishes, chard, cabbage, broccoli, potatoes, and onions. Warm-season picks are tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, beans, cucumbers, corn, squash, and melons. Cold-tolerant, short-season seed varieties suited to your growing zone give the best results.

How do I garden at high elevation?

Expect a shorter season, since temperature drops around 3.5 degrees for every 1000 feet gained. Choose cold-tolerant, short-season varieties for your zone, do not push the start date even after warm spring days, and protect plants with row covers, hoop tunnels, shade cloth, and wind breaks against snow, hail, and sudden swings.

Should I use raised beds in colorado?

Raised beds have one big advantage in Colorado: their soil warms sooner, so you can plant earlier, and you skip the poor clay soil. The downside is the cost to build and fill them. A good compromise is raised beds for warm-weather vegetables and in-ground planting for cool-season crops.

When is the last frost date in colorado?

It depends on where you are. On the plains and the urban Front Range the last frost usually falls in the first half of May and the first fall freeze in early to mid October. In the foothills and mountains the last frost runs late May into June and the first freeze comes in early to mid September. Look up the dates for your own location.

How do I fix alkaline clay soil for a garden?

Work in plenty of organic matter or compost while tilling. It loosens the clay and feeds the soil, but it is not there to change the pH. In Colorado soils with free lime, lowering the pH is rarely practical, and most vegetables do fine anywhere from about 6.0 to 7.5. A general rule is 1 inch of compost for every four inches of soil.

Keep going

Read nextDIY garden fence to keep deer and rabbits outA photo walk-through of a 2015 garden fence build with 4x4 posts set in concrete, welded wire, and raised beds, plus lessons learned.Garden and Livestock · Guide

Related to this

Membership · $49.95 per year

There is a lot more behind the lock

158member pages in full
125recipes with exact amounts
6field guide PDFs, 206 pages
1manual of your own, built from any page

Every recipe and resource from the Prepper's Chemical Survival Guide, all six field guides to read here and download, the full audit and logbook, all twelve reference charts, and no ads.

My Manual · included

Build your own field manual

The most useful thing a membership gives you. Save any page on this site, recipes, charts, and whole field guides included. Put them in your order, name it, and print one manual with a cover and contents, or keep it as a PDF that opens with no signal.

  • It works when this site does not
  • Only your pages
  • Anyone in the house can use it
  • One current copy, not a pile of printouts
  • The house binder
  • A copy for the bug-out bag or truck
  • A copy for family
  • An offline PDF

Join for $49.95 per year

Garden and Livestock · GuideLast reviewed 2022-05-25

Membership

Save to My Manual is a member tool

Members build their own manual from the pages that fit their household, then print it or keep it as a PDF.

Why it matters

When the grid goes down, this site goes with it. Paper does not. Membership is how you get the whole manual off the screen and onto the shelf: every page in full, every field guide, and a binder built for your own household.

The field guide library

All six field guides. 206 pages. Included.

The complete Buckhorn Cliffs PDF set, yours to download, print, and keep from the day you join.

$60if bought one at a time

  • Cover of Stockpile Essentials Field GuideStockpile Essentials39 pagesEverything to keep on hand, category by category, plus the 20 multi-use items.
  • Cover of Survival Foods Field GuideSurvival Foods35 pagesStoring, extending, and using the food supply. Real shelf life by the numbers.
  • Cover of Chemical Compounds Field GuideChemical Compounds29 pagesThe 33 compounds: storage, top uses, hazards, and the never-mix chart.
  • Cover of Spare Parts and Repair Stock Field GuideSpare Parts and Repair Stock40 pagesWhat to keep on hand to fix the home and land when the supply chain breaks.
  • Cover of Walk-Around Preparedness AuditWalk-Around Preparedness Audit33 pagesFifteen systems scored 1 to 5, with the printable scorecard.
  • Cover of The Preparedness LogbookPreparedness Logbook30 pagesThe household information that needs to be on paper.

My Manual · included

Build your own field manual

The most useful thing a membership gives you. No book fits your household exactly. My Manual does. Save any page on this site, recipes, charts, and whole field guides included, put them in your order, and print one manual with your name on the cover. It holds only what is relevant to you, and nothing you would skip.

Why it matters

  • It works when this site does notNo power and no signal means no website. A printed manual and an offline PDF still open, which is the whole point of writing any of this down.
  • Only your pagesThis site covers every household. Yours needs a fraction of it. Your manual holds the pages that match your water source, your climate, and your gear, so nobody digs through the rest under stress.
  • Anyone in the house can use itThe person who reads this site may not be the one home when it counts. A binder on the shelf, in your order, with a contents page, is something a spouse or a teenager can follow.
  • One current copy, not a pile of printoutsEvery page prints in the same field guide layout with a cover, a contents page, and the print date. Change a page, print again, and the old copy is easy to spot.

What to build with it

  • The house binderYour water source, your climate, your gear. Only the pages you would reach for.
  • A copy for the bug-out bag or truckA short version that travels: water, first aid, comms, and the recipes you rely on.
  • A copy for familyHand a parent or a grown kid a manual built for their house and their supplies.
  • The shop and the barnParts lists, repair skills, and the never-mix chart, kept where the work happens.
  • A recipe book of your ownThe cleaners, fuels, and remedies you make, with exact amounts, in one place.
  • An offline PDFSaved to a phone, a tablet, or a drive in the Faraday bag. It opens with no signal.

How it works

  1. 1Save what fitsPress "Save to My Manual" on any page: a recipe, a chart, a guide, a parts list, or a whole field guide.
  2. 2Put it in your orderOn My Account, drag the pages into the order you want. Name the manual and add your household name.
  3. 3Print it or save a PDFOpen the preview, then print it or save a PDF. It is sized for 8.5 x 11 inch paper, with a cover and a contents page. Field guides go in exactly as the PDFs are laid out. No ads, no photos.
  4. 4Keep it currentAdd a page, pull one out, print again. The cover carries the date, so you always know which copy is the latest.

Also included

  • The entire site, unlockedAll 158 member pages open in full: exact amounts, every step, every warning, every parts list. Nothing held back.
  • Every recipe and resource in the bookAll 138 recipes and 33 compounds from Prepper's Chemical Survival Guide, with exact amounts, every step, every warning, and the reference charts.
  • A clean PDF of any entryOne press turns any page into a field guide sheet for the binder, the truck, or the shop wall.
  • Checklists and audit scores that follow youSaved to the account, so the phone, the laptop, and the shop computer always match.
  • No adsMembers read the whole site without a single ad.
$49.95per year. About 14 cents a day. Cancel any time and keep the year you paid for.