Quick facts
- Store1 gallon per person per day; two weeks is the target
- Boil1 minute at a rolling boil; 3 minutes above 6,500 feet
- Bleach8 drops of plain 6 percent bleach per gallon, 16 if cloudy; wait 30 minutes
- Calcium hypochlorite1 tablespoon of stock solution per gallon, 30 minutes; the dry powder keeps 10 years
- CryptoChlorine and iodine do not kill it; boiling, chlorine dioxide, UV and a 1 micron filter do
- Hidden waterWater heater 30 to 50 gallons, pipes, toilet tank (not the bowl), ice
Water goes bad four ways, and no single method fixes all four. It carries things that are alive, bacteria, viruses and protozoa, which disinfection or a fine enough filter handles. It carries dirt, which shields the germs and clogs the filter, so it comes out first. It carries dissolved chemicals, fuel, pesticides and metals, which only carbon, distillation or reverse osmosis touch. And it carries salt, which only distillation or reverse osmosis remove. Know which of the four you are dealing with and the right method is obvious.
Filter for what you can see, disinfect for what you cannot, and boil when you are not sure. Boiling kills everything alive in water and needs nothing but a pot and heat. Every other method on this page is a way to skip the fire.
How water becomes unsafe covers the contaminants themselves; this page is what to do about them.
What each method handles
| Method | Bacteria | Viruses | Giardia | Crypto | Chemicals | Salt |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Boiling | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | No | No |
| Bleach or calcium hypochlorite | Yes | Yes | Yes, 30 min | No | No | No |
| Chlorine dioxide tablets | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes, 4 hours | No | No |
| Iodine | Yes | Yes | Yes | No | No | No |
| UV pen, clear water | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | No | No |
| 0.1 to 0.2 micron filter | Yes | No | Yes | Yes | Carbon only | No |
| 0.01 to 0.02 micron ultrafilter | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Carbon only | No |
| Distillation or reverse osmosis | Yes | Yes | Yes | Yes | Most | Yes |
Crypto is Cryptosporidium, a protozoan that lives in any water that cattle, deer or people have been near, and it shrugs off chlorine and iodine. That one row is why a filter or a boil belongs beside the bleach in every kit.
Disinfection: killing what is alive
A rolling boil for one full minute; three minutes above 6,500 feet, where water boils cooler. Let it cool, pour it between two containers to put the air back in for taste. It does nothing about chemicals or salt, and it costs fuel: about a cup of white gas or a few sticks per gallon.
Plain unscented bleach, no splashless, no scent. For 6 percent: 8 drops per gallon of clear water, 16 if cloudy or very cold, wait 30 minutes; it should smell faintly of chlorine, and if it does not, dose again. For 8.25 percent: 6 drops. An open bottle loses strength within a year, so the date on it matters.
Pool shock, 65 to 73 percent, keeps for ten years dry and a one pound bag treats thousands of gallons. You mix a stock solution first, then dose 1 tablespoon of stock per gallon and wait 30 minutes. The exact recipe, the residual to aim for and the handling rules are on the calcium hypochlorite formula; the compound itself is under calcium hypochlorite. Store it away from anything it can react with.
One tablet per liter. Bacteria, viruses and Giardia in 30 minutes; Cryptosporidium in 4 hours. Little taste, no thyroid concern, a few years of shelf life sealed. The best chemical for a pack because it is the only one that gets crypto.
Tablets or Lugol's solution kill bacteria, viruses and Giardia, not crypto, and leave a taste. Not for pregnancy, thyroid conditions or more than a few weeks of steady use. The dose is on the Lugol's iodine formula.
A UV pen sterilizes a liter of clear water in about 90 seconds, everything including crypto, and needs batteries. Sunlight does the same for free: a clear PET bottle of clear water on its side in full sun for 6 hours, two days if cloudy. Neither works on cloudy water; the dirt shades the germs.
Filtration: taking out what you can see, and some of what you cannot
Pore size decides what a filter stops. Bacteria are about 0.5 to 1 micron across, protozoa 3 to 10, viruses 0.02 to 0.1. So a 0.1 or 0.2 micron filter stops bacteria and protozoa cold and passes viruses; an ultrafilter at 0.01 to 0.02 microns stops viruses too. Viruses are rare in North American backcountry water and common wherever sewage gets in, which is floods and much of the developing world. Activated carbon, usually a second stage, takes out chlorine taste, many pesticides and some metals. No pumped or gravity filter removes dissolved salt or nitrates.
Straw and squeeze filters
Pack · bacteria and protozoaA hollow fiber filter at 0.1 or 0.2 microns, drunk through directly or squeezed from a pouch. Thousands of liters per filter, a few ounces, no moving parts. Backflush it to clear it, and never let it freeze with water inside; the fibers crack and it fails silently.
Pump filters
Pack and camp · groupsA pump fills bottles and pots from a puddle you could not drink through a straw. The MSR MiniWorks is a ceramic and carbon pump you can scrub clean in the field. The Katadyn Pocket is a silver-impregnated ceramic pump rated to 50,000 liters, the one to buy once. The Survivor Filter PRO adds a 0.01 micron ultrafilter stage, so it stops viruses as well; its ultrafilters are rated to 100,000 liters and its carbon cartridge to about 2,000, so stock spare carbon.
Gravity filters
Home and camp · the counterFill the top, let it drip. A countertop system with ceramic or carbon block elements handles bacteria, protozoa, sediment and taste for a household with no power and no pump; the LifeStraw Family does the same for a camp and is rated to 18,000 liters. Ceramic and carbon do not remove viruses, salt or nitrates, so pair a gravity filter with disinfection when sewage is in the picture. The Boroux is the one on my counter.
Cloth, sand and charcoal take out mud and some taste and let every germ through. They are the first step, not the treatment; disinfect or boil what comes out. The soda bottle filter is the field version.
Distillation: the only fix for salt and metals
Boil the water, catch the steam, let it condense. The salt, the metals, the nitrates and the fluoride stay behind, and so does everything alive. A pot with a domed lid inverted over it and a cup in the middle to catch the drips makes a few cups an hour over a fire; a solar still, a hole with a container in the bottom and clear plastic over the top weighted in the center, makes a pint or two a day. Distilled water is flat; pour it between containers to aerate it, and the taste formula covers the rest. Reverse osmosis does the same job with pressure and a membrane, and a countertop unit is the practical version for a house on bad well water.
When the tap stops: the water already in the house
Then rain barrels, a pool (filter and boil; the chlorine is not enough on its own once the pump stops), a neighbor's well, and the creek, in that order. The water outage scenario is the day by day, and sourcing and carrying local water covers the walk to the creek.
What to store
Store it three ways so you can carry some and keep a lot: cases of bottled water for the car and the grab bag, stackable 5 to 7 gallon jugs you can lift, and a 30 or 55 gallon drum with a pump for the house. Food grade containers only, never a milk jug (it leaks and the plastic breaks down) or anything that held chemicals. Tap water in a clean sealed container keeps for years; rotate it every 6 to 12 months anyway, or treat it with a few drops of bleach per gallon and forget it. A collapsible cube in the kit holds 5 gallons for nothing when empty. The storage guide covers containers and treatment in depth, disinfecting barrels and cisterns covers the big tanks, and the spares list covers the filters, pumps and spigots that keep it all working.
Well water: test it, then decide
A deep, properly cased and sealed well is usually the cleanest water there is, and nobody checks it but you. Wells pick up nitrates from fields and septic systems, arsenic, radon and uranium from the rock they sit in, and bacteria from a cracked casing, a bad cap or a flood that reached the wellhead. None of those has a taste.
Do the lab test when you buy, every year for bacteria and nitrates, and after any flood or work on the well. If bacteria show up, shock chlorinate the well with the same calcium hypochlorite in the kit, run it through the plumbing, wait, flush and retest; the cistern formula covers the amounts. A gravity filter on the counter is cheap insurance between tests.
The kit
- Two weeks of stored water, in cases, jugs and a drum
- Calcium hypochlorite, sealed, with the formula printed
- Plain unscented bleach, dated, and a dropper
- Chlorine dioxide tablets in every pack
- A 0.1 micron squeeze or straw filter per person
- A pump or gravity filter for the group
- A UV pen and spare batteries, or the sun and clear bottles
- A pot with a lid, and fuel to boil
- Collapsible containers to carry from a source
- Test strips, and the lab's phone number
Questions this answers
Tap a question for the short answer.
How do I purify water without a filter?
Boil it: one minute at a rolling boil, three minutes above 6,500 feet. That kills everything alive in it. If you cannot boil, plain unscented bleach at 8 drops per gallon (16 if the water is cloudy), wait 30 minutes; or calcium hypochlorite, which stores for a decade as a powder and treats thousands of gallons; or chlorine dioxide tablets. Let cloudy water settle first and pour off the clear top, or run it through a cloth, because dirt shields germs from the chemical.
Does bleach kill everything in water?
No. Chlorine kills bacteria and viruses and, given time, Giardia. It does not reliably kill Cryptosporidium, a protozoan common in surface water that causes weeks of diarrhea. It also does nothing about chemicals, fuel or metals. Where crypto is a risk, which is any creek, pond or flood water, boil, use chlorine dioxide tablets (4 hours for crypto), a UV pen, or a filter rated at 1 micron absolute or finer.
What does a water filter remove?
It depends on the pore size. A 0.1 or 0.2 micron hollow fiber or ceramic filter stops bacteria and protozoa, including Giardia and crypto, and lets viruses through. A 0.01 to 0.02 micron ultrafilter, or a purifier bottle like the Grayl, also stops viruses. Activated carbon takes out chlorine taste, many pesticides and some metals. No ordinary filter removes dissolved salt, nitrates or fluoride; that takes reverse osmosis or distillation.
My city water got cut off, what do I do?
First fill the bathtub and every pot and jug from whatever pressure is left. Then use what is already in the house: the water heater holds 30 to 50 gallons (power or gas off first, inlet closed, a hot tap opened upstairs, drain from the bottom valve), the pipes hold a few gallons (open the highest tap to let air in, drain from the lowest), the toilet tank holds a couple of gallons if no cleaner has ever been in it, and the ice maker is a reserve. Treat anything you are not sure about. If a boil notice comes with the outage, boil or treat everything from the tap when it returns until the notice lifts.
How much water should I store per person?
One gallon per person per day, half for drinking and half for cooking and washing, and more in heat, for nursing mothers and for the sick. Three days is the bare minimum; two weeks is the target. For a family of four that is 56 gallons: a few cases of bottles you can carry, plus stackable 5 to 7 gallon jugs, plus a 30 or 55 gallon drum if you have the space. Rotate it every 6 to 12 months or treat it and forget it.
Do I need to purify water from a deep well?
Test it before you decide. A deep, properly sealed well is usually clean, but private wells are not regulated by anyone but you, and they pick up nitrates from farms, arsenic and radon from rock, and bacteria from a cracked casing or a flood. Test for bacteria and nitrates every year and after any flooding or work on the well; test once for arsenic, lead, radon and hardness. If bacteria show up, shock chlorinate the well and retest.
How do I test my well water?
Three levels. Strip kits from the hardware store give a rough read on pH, hardness, nitrates, chlorine and sometimes bacteria for a few dollars. A digital meter gives accurate pH and total dissolved solids. A mail-in laboratory test is the only one that reliably finds bacteria, arsenic, lead, radon and pesticides; your county health department or state lab usually offers one for less than a hundred dollars. Do the lab test when you buy the property and every few years after.
Can I drink the water in my water heater in an emergency?
Yes, and it is the biggest single reserve in most houses. Turn off the power at the breaker or the gas at the valve, close the cold water inlet on top of the tank, open a hot tap somewhere upstairs so air can get in, and drain from the valve at the bottom into clean containers. Let the first quart run off if it is rusty. Do not turn the heater back on until the tank is full again. Treat it if the city water was already under a boil notice.
How do I make salt water or flood water drinkable?
Only distillation or reverse osmosis takes salt out; no filter or chemical does. A solar still or a pot with a lid and a catch cup over a fire will produce a slow trickle of pure water. Flood water is a chemical problem as well as a biological one, with fuel, sewage and farm runoff in it, so filter through carbon and then boil, and use it for washing rather than drinking if there is any other source. The how water becomes unsafe guide covers what floods carry.
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